On the road again...

42 dehydrated dinners prepared and assembled, 8 food parcels packed and posted, every item weighed, and weighed again for another trial pack, things spread all over the floor waiting to be finally stashed in the Osprey packs. News arriving that there are slips on the tramping access road in Richmond which our son Sam and his partner Lorraine are scheduled to travel up to meet us. Oh dear. We hope they make it, we really want their company over the Richmond range -and that night’s dinner and our food parcel!

It will be a lovely change for us to have company on some sections of the South Island trail. Our nephew-in-law Adi is meeting us at West Sabine Hut, and accompanying us over the Waiau Pass, and on over Harpers.

We wonder if we will catch sight of any Paradise Ducks in the South Island – they were like a talisman for us in the north where we saw them almost every day. We worry about how our bodies will hold up over two and a half months. I have nightmares about the rivers and Rob wakes up in a sweat dreaming about Mt Rintoul. But at the same time we are itching to get going again.

Not sure where and when we will be able to post to the blog again – it could be some weeks away. But in the meantime, it’s on with the boots and off we go in the teeth of a cold southerly to Ship Cove, destination Bluff…

North Island - last words

On one of those days when we were trudging along a road with nothing better to do, we compiled a list of all the types of accommodation we had stayed in during this journey:

Tent, cabin, holiday home, motel, hotel, hostel, gypsy caravan, caravan, beneath a beach bach balcony, friend’s house, family’s house, lodge, DOC hut, convent, scout camp and woolshed. Never under the stars – maybe the South Island will lend itself to this.

I stumbled upon this peculiarly apt quote by Suzanne Aubert when we were staying at the convent in Jerusalem on the Wanganui River:

        “Life is a journey by road
        On the way we travel the dust is thick and the shade is scarce
        Let us know how to select the best place to halt,
        To bathe our eyes
        To shake off the dust that covers us
        And to wash our sore feet”

And I thought this was perfect for the day toiling over Colonial Knob:

"Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass;

it's about learning to dance in the rain."

So that’s the North Island, Cape Reinga to the south coast of Wellington. Have we really walked all that way? It seems unreal.

We couldn’t have got this far without those angels who helped us along the way – you were all absolutely brilliant and it has been awesome to have you share in our journey. Thank you each and every one of you.

On to the South Island we go in January. Until then, take care and follow your dreams.

Homeward Stretch

Scrambled home-grown free range eggs for breakfast! Ah me, just wonderful. Rob decided we had some km credits, having earlier walked all the way into Levin – so our wonderful hosts Kev and Linda kindly dropped us down at the Waikanae supermarket for resupply. 

Raumati Beach (photo - Helen Griffiths)

The trail from here was a delight; along the pretty Waikanae River, through the Otaihanga Reserve, past some houses and onto Paraparaumu Beach. Tony and Helen Griffiths from our tramping club, The Kaumatuas, met us and for the first time on this section we had someone to walk with for a while. They took us to their charming home, where we chatted away, drank many cups of tea and ate indecent amounts of delicious home-baked muffins and ginger biscuits (we seem to have developed insatiable appetites). Tony and Helen joined us again for a short while as we headed south, then it was time to say goodbye and as it was getting late and the wind was cold we stepped up the pace a bit. We enjoyed the beach walking, and the up-and-down coastal walkway through Queen Elizabeth Park and so on to Paekakariki Holiday Park for the night. It didn’t rain on us today; that must be a first.

It was kind of fun to walk down State Highway 1 along the Centennial Highway next day – I’d always wanted to, it’s such a brilliant rocky coastline and the tide was high with the waves crashing against the sea wall in places. The footpath was adequate and actually the traffic wasn’t too bad. Then it was down on to the beach past the baches at Pukerua Bay, up the appropriately named Goat Track, along the Ara Harakeke Walkway, up the Taua Tapu track, then down 300 steps into Plimmerton where we gratefully slid into the Big Salami café for lunch.

On we went, over bridges, around the Aotea Lagoon complex (a revelation), through the lovely Gear Homestead grounds and past the astounding Adrenalin Forest. We’d never seen anything like it – massively tall pine trees with a sort of high wire adventure playground winding through it. People were up there, hooked on to wires with carabineers and climbing along ropes and on to skinny platforms – they’re crazy!

On to Porirua where we bought an obscene amount of food and promptly lost ourselves in a carpark building while we were trying to find our way out of the shopping complex. We had to carry all this extra weight up to Elsdon Camp where we had the entire 26 room lodge to ourselves – almost spooky. We couldn’t even eat all the Snickers bars we’d bought – that’ll teach us to be so greedy.

Stunning panoramic view from Colonial Knob

Our penultimate day turned out to be
one of the hardest. First there were the never-ending steps of despair climbing towards Colonial Knob – renamed Coronary Knob by Rob – then it started to rain, and as we climbed higher ferocious winds from hell battered us while the mists of doom swirled menacingly around us, hiding the marker poles. We were later told the wind gusts were over 100 km an hour – and we believed it, I got completely knocked off my feet twice, and had to hang on to Rob or handfuls of tussock for dear life.


Things didn’t improve as we climbed the Old Coach Road to Mount Kaukau, where the huge TV mast was all but invisible and the wind tearing through it was as loud as a jumbo jet engine. I got blown off my feet again; it was insane up there and we decided to bypass the Skyline Walkway and detour through Khandallah instead. A wise decision especially as we had the chance to drop into Café Villa in Johnsonville for a hot drink and a chat with the owner, Warren. It was a bit embarrassing as we created pools of water all over the floor as we sat there dripping wet. Our misery wasn’t over though - we had to head back out into the rain – the track followed the Kaiwharawhara stream and then we had to climb up arguably the steepest street in Wellington to the Town Belt, where the track wound around the hillside forever. There was a vague sense of wonder when we spied the Stadium, and realised we had actually made it to Wellington.

Our friend’s Nick and Lisbeth restored our spirits with their wonderful hospitality, and we enjoyed staying with them in their lovely home full of fascinating treasures and intriguing books.

We had the pleasure of Lisbeth’s company for the start of our walk on our last day until she had to detour to work - it's alright for some. We had to carry on along the City to Sea Walkway, which drove Rob crazy. He thought the trail should take walkers along the wonderful Wellington waterfront. I guess he had a point, but it was interesting discovering all the parks and pathways and patches of forest scattered throughout the city.


By the time we got to Berhamphore he was in a total grump – a sore knee didn’t help – so to cheer him up we detoured to our favourite chocolate shop, L’affaire au Chocolat, where the owner, lovely Jo Coffey, shouted us her delicious hot chocolate.

I managed to persuade Rob to rejoin the trail for the last haul to Island Bay - he wanted to walk straight down the road - but sloshing through a boggy golf course and climbing yet another steep hill plunged him back into muttering gloom! However, when we saw the final destination below us and we realised we’d made it, a slow smile crept over his face....

It was a moment of quiet triumph when we saw the Te Araroa Trail plaque marking the end of the North Island – we high-fived and jumped on a bus for home.

Day 21: Waikanae to Paekakariki Holiday Park. 22.5 km
Day 22: Paekakariki to Elsdon Camp, Porirua. 28.4 km
Day 23: Elsdon Camp to Tinakori Road. 29.7 km
Day 24: Tinakori Road to Island Bay. 14.5 km

The Tararua Tops

The first obstacle heading into the Tararuas was a mudhole pretending to be a paddock full of overly curious beasties who kept nudging and licking my pack! Luckily, they couldn’t climb the stile, so we eventually escaped them and headed on up the Gable End Ridge Track. Rob thought it would be a good idea to bypass the first hut, a mere 5 hour climb, and head straight for Te Matawai. So we climbed up and up. We kept thinking we must have reached the junction, but up we would go again over yet more mini peaks which Rob named The Annoyances. From the junction it was the exact opposite – we had to descend to Butcher Saddle, and we kept thinking we must have reached it, when down we would go again. We renamed the saddle Deep Depression.

Then of course came another climb to the hut, which I literally collapsed into. The tracks were wet, slippery and muddy all day long and to add to the cheeriness of the whole endeavour it started to rain. Brilliant.

I woke on my birthday to a cold southerly, swirling mist and an encouraging cup of tea. Rob even gave me a present which he had carried with him the whole time, a lovely butterfly brooch. He definitely earned brownie points for that surprise. It was a wonderful way to spend my day, slogging up over Pukematawai and up and up, scrambling over various rocky bumps.

The beautiful Park Valley

At least the sun came out and the mist slowly cleared revealing wonderful mountains all around, and affording us views down into the magnificent Park Valley. Lunch at the tiny, somewhat cheerless Dracaphyllum Hut, after which we had to climb down a steep, tricky face on to and over a slip near Kelliher – ugh. Some wonderful goblin forest made a nice change, but the afternoon was just as tough; the total ascent for the day was something like 1750 metres.

Rob was patient with me all day – but I did take exception to his suggestion that I lengthen my stride over the easy stuff. What easy stuff? And we haven’t all got giraffe legs. Or spent an earlier life as a mountain goat…

Late that afternoon we climbed up through tussock on Nichols and there below us like a little dot was the hut. It looked like heaven to me. Just as well there were 6 bunks, as a family of 4 were there before us. They were wonderful, couldn’t have been more welcoming, reshuffled all their gear and gave us space on the bottom bunk – we must have looked old and tired (we were old and tired). They then fed us delicious falafel and timtams. This family was amazing – Grandma Mary, her daughter and two grandchildren, and they were doing an intrepid route-finding trip up to Dorset Ridge. Wow, we were totally impressed.

Going over the tops next day we had a very relaxed approach – the weather was good and the panoramic views of the surrounding peaks outstanding. There was a bit of a chilly breeze chasing us up Mt Crawford but we were soon joyfully bounding down the other side to Junction Knob, being careful not to tread on little fluffy black caterpillars on the track.




We spent a ridiculous amount of time lying in the sun at lunchtime – somehow that made the long, slippery, steep descent to the Otaki River seem never-ending. The river was really beautiful, clear clean water and deep emerald pools which would be a delight to swim in during the summer months.



Waitawaewae hut was a welcome sight, and we were just settling in when the Band of Brothers arrived – Mike, Rob, Rene and their friend Greg. Rene leapt forward and shook our hands and pronounced us legends when he found out we were doing the Trail, then proceeded to keep us heartily entertained. I love sharing huts with folks that make us laugh and share their prime rations – gingernuts and sultana pasties were such treats. They even conjured up a Strepsil for my cold!

Otaki River

We fair bounded along next day, even though it was the usual slippery, wet, boggy, tree-rooty Tararua track, and because we wear light-weight shoes we have to take a little more care with our foot placement. Rob reckons that all the tracks were as wet as he had ever seen them.

The plan was to stay at Parawai Hut, but we found the place taken over by 4 adults and 7 children, and we got the distinct impression they really didn’t want any smelly old trampers like us sharing the last bunk. So we opted to carry on down to Schoolhouse Flat and camp in our lovely, friendly little tent. We discovered we can cook dinner in the rain. We can eat breakfast in the rain. We can pack up in the rain. And we already know we can walk in the rain.

We were eager to discover the scenic delights of the new Pukeatua track from Otaki Forks through to Waikanae, and we really would have loved it only it rained or drizzled the whole time, and we never saw the scenery. We did see some wonderful big rimus and ratas though, and we enjoyed the section through pine forest.

We arrived at Riverwood, the home of our great friends Linda and Kevin Milne and their daughter Tommie, just 1 minute past our ETA – to find Kev at the end of their drive with his head and shoulders in a wheelie bin. Hmmm – Kev has some great stories about wheelie bins and we imagined all sorts of scenarios for this. Turns out he was retrieving a self-heating chocolate drink carton for a story he was writing. Takes all sorts. 

We were soon washed, fed, watered and entertained in fantastic style. It was the night of the big Rugby World Cup final between France and New Zealand, and even Freddie the dog joined us round the TV. Tommie made us all flags and there was much leaping up, shouting, screaming, waving and general hysteria when we won - by 1 point. What a night! What a way to end our jaunt through the Tararuas.

Day 16: Poads Rd to Te Matawai hut. 13.8 km
Day 17: Te Matawai to Nichols Hut. 14.7 km
Day 18: Nichols to Waitewaewae Hut. 10.1 km
Day 19: Waitewaewae to Schoolhouse Flat camp. 16.4 km
Day 20: Schoolhouse Flat to Reikorangi Road. 22.4 km

Over the mountains

Tararua Peaks from Nichols

We survived the mountain tops. The weather Gods took pity on us and gave us a couple of glorious days to cross the exposed tops. It was sensational, spectacular, awesome and the hardest thing I have ever done in my life. But that's all you get for now - a full write up will appear in a few days. I am off to enjoy a red wine, a wonderful meal, and THE game with our lovely friends Linda and Kevin and their delightful daughter Tommie. So see you soon...

Roads, roads, roads

My sister Elinor is an Angel – not only did she accommodate, feed and drop us back on track, she then returned from her home with Rob’s rain jacket which he had left behind. My pack cover provided a temporary shelter from the rain that fell all day!

We road walked to Turakina with one unpleasant bit along the main highway, then it teemed just as we arrived and we were soaked by the time we made it to The Old Coach House, built about 1860 and in need of some tender loving care. But we had a lovely room to stay in.

Back roads, the wild Turakina beach and forest tracks took us to Bulls in a near marathon day of 40 kms. No need to say we were both near dead on arrival. We collapsed in a motel behind the Criterion Hotel and staggered across the road for a great feed at the Rat Hole in the other pub. I wondered if I should still speak to Rob after he noticed a glamorous looking woman and turned to look at me and asked “What have I done to you?”

Quiet back roads took us to Feilding and next day it felt like yet another long walk to Palmerston North. Rob stopped often to scoop up worms from the tarmac and place them gently on the grass verge.

We found our way along the lovely Riverside Walkway for kilometres until reaching the Motor Camp. We ventured out later for fish and chips and had to run all the way back with them in a heavy rain shower. I stuffed the package down my jacket and it will forevermore smell of fish and chips – but it kept them hot and dry!

Misinformation on track closures and the lure of a somewhat enticing rugby world cup semi-final meant a change in plan, and we missed Burrton’s Track and instead road walked the length of State Highway 57 between Palmy and Shannon.  The road kill count was phenomenal and included pukeko, mallard, grey teal, chaffinch, goldfinch, blackbird, magpie , stoat, possum, rabbit, hedgehog and dog.

We stayed in the Club Hotel and descended to the bar in good time to have a beer and join the crowds to watch the game on the huge TV screen. But the barmaids were closing up as everyone had gone home! We managed to buy a bottle of beer and headed back upstairs to the guests lounge where we hollered and cheered all alone to our heart’s content at a wonderful performance by the AB’s. Cory Jane is a legend.

From Shannon we finally, after days and days, got back on a real tramping track, the Mangahao-Makahika track. Ross Campbell from Owlcatraz kindly drove us up to the start of the track – our payment goes to the Shannon Progressive Association – and off we set. As you can imagine after all the rain, the track was wet, slushy, boggy, muddy – all those damp descriptors. In minutes my knee was dripping blood, we were covered in mud but we were happy. No cars, yay. The streams were higher than normal, but no problem. We enjoyed some fairly spectacular views over the Horowhenua and as far as Kapiti from the lookouts up top, and descended to the trail end in good time.

We then had a steep haul up our second track of the day, the Arapaepae, which took us into the back of Levin. As usual, it started to pour with rain as we approached town, and by the time we got to the motor camp we were soaked! And exhausted – it was a 25km day on tramping tracks, so hard work, and we got to camp well after 5.00 pm.

Time for a day off and hoping for some better weather for our attempt on the Tararuas. I’m really looking forward to the climb to 1400 metres.

Watch this space!

Day 9:  Wanganui to the Old Coach House, Turakina. 28.2 km
Day 10: Turakina to motel, Bulls. 39 km
Day 11: Bulls to Feilding motel. 21.4 km
Day 12: Feilding to Palmerston North Holiday Park. 26.2 km
Day 13: Palmerston North to Shannon hotel. 33.3 km
Day 14: Mangahao-Makahika track to Levin Motor Camp. 27.1 kmDay 15: Rest day - Hooray!!

Down the River

When we left Wellington in torrential rain we felt despondent, but by the time we reached National Park the sun had come out and our enthusiasm returned. After so many months off the trail, our packs felt heavy, but the Fisher Track presented no huge obstacles and we enjoyed getting underway again. We got out on to Kurua Road and met a lovely family, Jason, Cherie and baby Kaysha. They kindly offered us a place to stay for the night which we sadly had to decline – we needed to clock up a few more kms or the second day would be impossible! So we ended up camping on the edge of Retaruke Road, a few sheltering trees protecting us from an early evening shower. Rob by this time was developing a horrendous cold, and he has suffered all week. At least it slowed him down just a tad, and I had some chance of keeping up with him.

It was a long road walk to Whakahoro, over 34 kms, and it sure felt like it. We met a local councillor on the way, Elaine, and we chatted to her about the trail and the necessary shortcut up to the Mangaparua Trig. She wasn’t entirely supportive of it, but we hope she will see the need eventually. There was almost no traffic on Oio road, but an angel came along 2 kms before the end and took our packs for us. That included our rain jackets, and she no sooner drove off than it started to rain. We just made it to the Blue Duck café before the heavens opened. We had a long chat to Dan Steele at the café about the fantastic work he is doing to protect Whio (blue duck) in the area, and were very thankful of the DOC Schoolhouse as our accommodation for the night, while the hot shower at the café helped ease our aching bodies.

It was a fine day for our tramp up the Kaiwhakauka Valley and up to the Mangaparua Trig. We had to dodge around a few boggy patches, but most of the track was great, through lovely forest and farmland, and a clear trail to follow. It was a hot and sweaty climb to the trig, but all downhill to Bettjeman’s where we found a delightful spot to camp.

It was kind of sad seeing the grassy clearings and the names of the poor blighters who tried to farm the Mangaparua Valley in the 1920’s – all the farms were abandoned by the 1960’s.

There were some truly scary bluffs to negotiate – the river about 70 metres below us, papa cliffs above, a narrow track wending its way across – and 500 metres before the Bridge to Nowhere we had to cross a recently cleared slip one at a time, again with vertiginous drop-offs. There was fresh spoil on the track, but luckily goats had plugged a track across for us!

We were down at the Bridge to Nowhere in no time, and were met by Ben Adams from the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge, and a small tour group. We had the benefit of his very interesting historical talk, then made our way to the Mangaparua Landing, and from there by jet boat to the Lodge. We were the only guests, and enjoyed meeting our hosts Joe and Mandy, Ben’s son Blake, and brother Matt. It was a great place for Rob to relax and recover a bit.


Thoughts of paddling down to Pipiriki were abandoned next day as Rob was still crook and the weather looked dodgy, so we had the thrill of the jet boat ride instead. From Pipiriki we had a pleasant short walk to Jerusalem, Hiruharama, where we met Sisters Luciana and Meena, and spent the night in a lovely room at the Convent. Rob practically collapsed into bed that afternoon, but he did rally enough to tune in to a sports station on an old radio we found and listen to Wales beating Ireland and France beating England in the Rugby World Cup.

It was a brilliant walk along the fascinating River Road next day, stopping at Ranana to chat to a local farmer, Tricia, and at the Gallery at Matahiwi for a cold drink and a look at the River Queen, the boat used in the movie of the same name. We sat in incredibly hot sun at the old flour mill for lunch, and plodded on along the road. Rob’s classic line for the day: “That place up ahead is where we’re going to”. Yes, well…

We were fascinated to see a swarm of bees, and later on in the day had a few scary moments with a couple of massive bulls loose on the road. 

A gondola carried us high across the river to our destination for the night, a wonderful place called The Flying Fox. John, our host, was just awesome, and looked after us so well. We stayed in the Glory Cart, like a gypsy caravan, perfect for our needs. Every cottage was quirky and unique and the setting peaceful and pretty. We loved it. John sold us fresh free range eggs, avocado and fruit, and invited us into his beautiful studio to share a wine and watch the All Blacks beat Argentina, a great night.

John kindly fixed up a place for us to camp next day by the Pungarehu Marae, on private land owned by a local farming family. Patrene and Donald Wickham were so welcoming, as was their daughter Jane and baby Phoebe. It transpired that  A. H. Reed, the publisher, stayed on this very same farm when he walked the length of New Zealand all those years ago in his 90's.

And so on to Wanganui where my sister Elinor and Jimmy are looking after us and where we have had a chance to wash clothes, dry the tent, eat delicious food, sip fine wine, and enjoy a good rest. So until next time, goodbye for now, and Go the All Blacks!!!




Day 1: National Park to roadside camp, Retaruke Road. 18.1 km
Day 2: Retaruke Rd. to DOC cabin, Whakahoro. 34.1 km
Day 3: Whakahoro to Bettjeman’s camp. 29.7 km
Day 4: Bettjeman’s to Bridge to Nowhere Lodge. 12.5 km
Day 5: Jetboat to Pipiriki, walk to Jerusalem convent. 11.9 km
Day 6: Jerusalem to the Flying Fox, Koriniti. 20.7 km
Day 7: Koriniti to lawn camp, Pungarehu. 25.1 km
Day 8: Pungarehu to Wanganui. 18.1 km

National Park to Wellington

Here we are again, packs loaded and eager to start, but there are now storm warnings and heavy rain warnings and thunderstorm warnings and suddenly we don't wanna go!!!

But the bus is booked, the jet boat is booked, the canoe is booked, beds are booked - we just have to go and maybe look at a few alternative routes in case our tracks are no go. So tomorrow we are out of here, even if we have to swim......

Will try and post from Wanganui in a week or so. And Go the All Blacks!!

Traverse to the mountains

Yes, this was written from the comfort and safety of home - so now you know we made it. But it wasn't without some effort...

We left Taumaranui with heavy packs, loaded up with enough food for seven days. Rob's pack went into protest mode, and started falling apart. Shoulder strap buckles pinged, he had to tie knots in the straps to hold his pack on, and basically ended up looking like a bit of a hobo. Of course he tried to offload weight onto his good wife, but she cried foul.

We made it to Owhango, chatted to a gun cyclist who had just done the 42nd traverse in 3 hours - he's a machine - and following his directions found our way to the track. First we begged water from a woman doing up her cottage in case we couldn't find any, so with even heavier packs we set off up the traverse and a couple of hours later found a perfect little spot to camp on the side of the track.

A perfect camp site in the middle of nowhere provides a stream with clean water, soft grass, evening sun, beautiful forest, entertainment in the form of kereru swooping overhead, and of course a discreet and private ablution area. We got a bit feral and foraged for luscious blackberries and not so luscious apples - more offerings of the perfect campsite.

Next day was a Saturday, which meant we had several near-death experiences with crazy cyclists, quad bikes and motor bikes hurtling towards us. They were all having the fun of an amazing downhill, while we struggled and sweated ever upwards in the heat of the day, one climb going up and up forever to 910 metres. We did enjoy sensational views of the Wanganui River miles below us, lovely regenerating forest, and caught glimpses of our destination, the mountains of the central plateau, in the distance.

It was along this track that I spent much time meditating on why and how a guy 10 years older than me could go faster and faster - at times I calculated that the galloping giraffe in front was at least a quarter of a kilometre ahead. I hate long legs.

On Kapoors road at the end of the track, the motorcyclists we'd seen earlier in the day came back, passed us with care and then deliberately gunned it down the gravel road leaving us to eat their dust. Sods.

We got out to State Highway 47 at 5.00 pm, after walking 62 kilometres in 2 days, in desperate need of a shower and with another 10 km to go to the Tongariro Holiday Park. The only sensible thing to do was stick out the thumb and we got a ride with a Japanese tourist Daisuke who told us about the earthquake and tsunami in Japan. It was some time before we learnt the full scale of the shocking disaster.

We had a lazy morning before setting off up the road to Ketatahi Hut, battling against the tide of people coming off the crossing on a perfect day. The views over Lake Taupo from the hut were stunning and sunset was magical.

We were the only nutters who elected to camp at Ketatahi. There was a cool northwesterly breeze blowing the sulphuric fumes from the hot springs straight into our tent. Our tent isn't a real tent. It's a tarptent - the side and end walls are mesh. Needless to say it was a tad chilly in our lightweight sleeping bags that night.

Next day we set off early avoiding virtually everyone doing the crossing, and had the most fantastic trip through spectacular landscapes to the enormous new Waihohonu Hut. It looks like a luxury lodge, has solar panels providing enough electricity for lighting in the kitchen area and a hot water tap. Posh.

From there we headed south to Rangipo Hut and didn't see anyone for a couple of days. There were loads of gullies to negotiate and a slightly disconcerting section across a lahar path. You are not supposed to linger and are supposed to walk quickly across the area - very tricky on steep slippery gravel.

The next morning in perfect conditions again, we headed to Mangaehuehu hut. This time there was a truly enormous, steep and slippery downhill to the Wahianoa River, and of course a big ascent on the other side. But even so we got to the hut earlier than expected, around lunch time, and decided to carry on to Blyth Hut for our last night in the wilds. We watched the sun go down, lighting up Mt Taranaki with a wonderful red glow and providing us with a sensational end to our trek.

Walking down the Blyth Track to Ohakune on our last day we got a huge surprise to bump into Shelley and Bob coming up to meet us. It was great to see them and we celebrated our journey together in Ohakune with yet another massive steak at the RSA before they drove us home next day.

So there we have it, section 2 done and dusted, National Park through to Wanganui and on to Wellington in October.

Our feet are slowly recovering, we are eating like horses trying to regain the couple of kgs we've lost, and we've even started beating the garden back into shape. Thanks again to all our wonderful helpers for the transport, beds and food, and to Rose and Emily for looking after the house. We couldn't do it without you all.

Until next time, Rob and Debby

Notes

Day 21: Taumaranui to side of track camp on 42 Traverse. 28.6 km
Day 22: Traverse to Tongariro Holiday Park. 31 km
Day 23: Holiday Park to Ketatahi Hut. 14.6 km
Day 24: Ketatahi to Waihohonu Hut. 15.3 km
Day 25: Waihohonu to Rangipo Hut. 12.8 km
Day 26: Rangipo to Blyth Hut. 15.4 km
Day 27: Blyth to Ohakune Mountain Road. 7.7 km

Through the Pureoras

When it's pouring with rain and you have your hood over your eyes, it is easy to go the wrong way. Suffice it to say we actually managed to go to Te Kuiti 3 times on this trip. Once was on the train on the way to Auckland. Once we walked there from Waitomo. And once we returned there after going 16 kilometres up highway 3 instead of highway 30. Don't ask.

Everything turned out well as we found a brilliant B&B in Benneydale. Not another thing there, but our French and Dutch hosts were amazing and inspirational in their efforts to bring the world to Benneydale through music and art. Thanks Maurice and Monica.

We then spent 4 wonderful days in the Pureora Forest, kaka wheeling over our heads, blue duck whistling in the pretty Waihaha River, massive rimus and totaras, and birdsong all around. Add great huts (Bog Inn, Waihaha and Hauhungaroa) and a well-marked track with perfect weather, what more could we want?

Coming off the Hauhungaroas we went up Duck Creek without a clue where we were going. We turned around in despair at the mismatch between the track map we were given and the actual GPS trace we were following. Bu**er. Te Araroa Trail info is still far from perfect and navigation has been very tricky at times.

But then we found ourselves in lovely Taumaranui where we indulged in a great fat juicy steak at the RSA and scored a free guided night tour of the town by a local Maori woman, Gina. She gave us a wonderful account of the local history along the way. Wow.

Then we were due to head for Owhango and the 42 Traverse which we hoped would lead us to Ruapehu for the last leg of our trail. Once again the Te Araroa trail info was scanty, and we faced 42 kms in the middle of nowhere with some trepidation. We hoped our family and friends would hear from us again......

Notes

Day 14: Waitomo to Te Kuiti campground. 14.8 km
Day 15: Te Kuiti to Benneydale B&B. 26.8 km
Day 16: Benneydale to DOC field base cabin, Pureora. 20.1 km
Day 17: Field base ot Bog Inn Hut, Pureora. 12.9 km
Day 18: Bog Inn Hut to Waihaha Hut, Pureora. 19.4 km
Day 19: Waihaha Hut to Hauhungaroa Hut, Pureora. 12.4
Day 20: Hauhungaroa Hut to Taumaranui Campground. 22 km

From the big smoke to Waitomo

Nobody heard from us for quite a while. Although we had been travelling through one of the most populated areas of New Zealand, we always found ourselves in the wilds or without an internet connection.

We were camping at the Wairoa Dam in the Hunuas when a lady walking her dog late in the evening told us of the Christchurch earthquake. We were a long way from cellphone reception, so we spent a restless night worrying about our son Sam and other family and friends, and next day altered our route to get in contact, thereby missing the Mangatawhiri tracks. Luckily we had a text from Lorraine re Sam and also gradually heard that others we know were okay. A dreadful event with ongoing ramifications.

That same night brought us another shock. A car pulled up beside us just as it got dark, a guy jumped out and approached us carrying a rifle!! But it was okay – Bruce was just off to shoot rabbits, but not before he’d told us the story of his life – a guy with a big chip on his shoulder, so we still didn’t feel entirely safe until he drove off.

But back to our first night in Auckland and the start of our journey. The following day was the first of many hot days when water became our biggest problem, other than the usual blisters. It took us two days to walk out of Auckland – first night stealth camping beside the airport runway (very noisy and not to be recommended), second night a great scout camp in Clevedon. We do like variety. Highlights were the Otuataua Stonefields at Mangere, and the incredible bird numbers on the Manakau Harbour at high tide. And bumping into friendly cyclists like Ben who took time out to stop and chat.

From there it was up the Wairoa River track into the Hunuas through beautiful forest and on good trails, and then to Mercer (a motel with a cricket plague) for the first of three days walking on stopbanks up the majestic and surprisingly unpeopled Waikato River. Great historic pub at Rangiriri – Rob thinks the stud height was 14 feet!

Next day we were dwarfed by the massive Huntly Power Station and intrigued by its sculpture garden symbolising Tainui’s treaty settlement in 1995. That night we found ourselves camping on Gary and Lorraine’s front lawn. Who are they? No idea, just nice people who gave us space and water and home grown grapes. Yay.

Then came the Hakarimata ridge to Ngaruawahia, which we loved despite going up and down and up and down – undulating as Rob says. Met Glen the ultra-marathon man doing a short training run – the first person we have met on any track. We loved talking to him.

Ngaruawahia was most needed as we stank to high heaven by then, despite the odd shower along the way. And our clothes were filthy – a bit bacterial in the hot weather, pooh. Next stop was with Bob and Anne in Cambridge and we didn’t want to offend them too much with our smell.

The approach to the Hamilton CBD along the river is magnificent, and highly recommended if you are passing through Hamilton. Bob and Anne wined and dined us in their inimitable style, and may have slowed us down the next day as we burnt off the wonderful excesses.

Next day was a fantastic walk in the Kapamahunga Range over huge farms with rocky bluffs, complete with sheep mustering, and outstanding panoramas, to a delightful no camping riverside camp (ha ha, no police either). After 30 kms nobody could have stopped us anyway.

The following morning we climbed nearly 1000 metres to Mt Pirongia. We actually met two people out for a day walk – they were Taiwanese – at the summit. We made it to Pahutea Hut just as the skies opened – what a haven, our first proper DOC hut on the trail since Cape Reinga.

A great walk off Pirongia next day, starting with the longest boardwalk we have ever encountered on the Hiwikiwi track. Then in the afternoon it rained, and then it poured, and we walked and walked and walked at times through head high fern and manuka on a cattle-muddied track until we found an abandoned woolshed aka the Hilton. We swept a corner free of wool and dust and made ourselves a cosy nest for the night – thank God, no rats or mice. Or ghosts.

Next day the rain stopped and we found our way over farms and through forest (thanks, Melissa, your directions worked a treat) the long way round to Waitomo, where we enjoyed a touch of civilization – big home made meat pies and a beer. The day was not unusual in one respect – the GPS information we had and the track descriptions didn’t match, and the track markers often didn't exist. Just a wee challenge – the psychology of this trip is often as tough as the trail itself and the demands of walking all day every day.

But hi ho, we’re having a great time, we’ve met some wonderful people along the way – all angels in their different ways. Next stop, Te Kuiti to restock and then into the Pureoras we go. Thank you so much to all who have helped us and sorry this is so long.

Notes
Day 2: Mt Eden to Ak Airport - stealth camp beside Puhinui road. 28.8 km
Day 3: Airport to Camp Sladdin, Clevedon via Mill Rd. 22.5 km
Day 4: Clevedon to shelter below Wairoa Dam, Hunuas. 24.9 km
Day 5: Wairoa Dam to Mercer motel. 33.9 km
Day 6: Mercer to Rangiriri Hotel. 27.1 km
Day 7: Rangiriri to near Hakarimata reserve, camp on lawn. 22.9 km
Day 8: Hakarimata Reserve to Ngaruawahia motel. 13.6 km
Day 9: Ngaruawahia to Lake Rotoroa, Hamilton. 22.4 km
Day 10: Drinsdale, Hamilton to Kaniwhaiwha Stream, camping. 30.1 km
Day 11: Kaniwhaiwha Stream to Pahutea Hut, Pirongia. 10.9 km
Day 12: Pahutea Hut to derelict woolshed, Mahoe Road. 31.5 km
Day 13: Mahoe Road to Waitomo. 19.2 km