Nobody heard from us for quite a while. Although we had been travelling through one of the most populated areas of New Zealand, we always found ourselves in the wilds or without an internet connection.
We were camping at the Wairoa Dam in the Hunuas when a lady walking her dog late in the evening told us of the Christchurch earthquake. We were a long way from cellphone reception, so we spent a restless night worrying about our son Sam and other family and friends, and next day altered our route to get in contact, thereby missing the Mangatawhiri tracks. Luckily we had a text from Lorraine re Sam and also gradually heard that others we know were okay. A dreadful event with ongoing ramifications.
That same night brought us another shock. A car pulled up beside us just as it got dark, a guy jumped out and approached us carrying a rifle!! But it was okay – Bruce was just off to shoot rabbits, but not before he’d told us the story of his life – a guy with a big chip on his shoulder, so we still didn’t feel entirely safe until he drove off.
But back to our first night in Auckland and the start of our journey. The following day was the first of many hot days when water became our biggest problem, other than the usual blisters. It took us two days to walk out of Auckland – first night stealth camping beside the airport runway (very noisy and not to be recommended), second night a great scout camp in Clevedon. We do like variety. Highlights were the Otuataua Stonefields at Mangere, and the incredible bird numbers on the Manakau Harbour at high tide. And bumping into friendly cyclists like Ben who took time out to stop and chat.
From there it was up the Wairoa River track into the Hunuas through beautiful forest and on good trails, and then to Mercer (a motel with a cricket plague) for the first of three days walking on stopbanks up the majestic and surprisingly unpeopled Waikato River. Great historic pub at Rangiriri – Rob thinks the stud height was 14 feet!
Next day we were dwarfed by 
the massive Huntly Power Station and intrigued by its sculpture garden symbolising Tainui’s treaty settlement in 1995. That night we found ourselves camping on Gary and Lorraine’s front lawn. Who are they? No idea, just nice people who gave us space and water and home grown grapes. Yay.
Then came the Hakarimata ridge to Ngaruawahia, which we loved despite going up and down and up and down – undulating as Rob says. Met Glen the ultra-marathon man doing a short training run – the first person we have met on any track. We loved talking to him.
Ngaruawahia was most needed as we stank to high heaven by then, despite the odd shower along the way. And our clothes were filthy – a bit bacterial in the hot weather, pooh. Next stop was with Bob and Anne in Cambridge and we didn’t want to offend them too much with our smell.
The approach to the Hamilton CBD along the river is magnificent, and highly recommended if you are passing through Hamilton. Bob and Anne wined and dined us in their inimitable style, and may have slowed us down the next day as we burnt off the wonderful excesses.
Next day was a fantastic walk in the Kapamahunga Range over huge farms with rocky bluffs, complete with sheep mustering, and outstanding panoramas, to a delightful no camping riverside camp (ha ha, no police either). After 30 kms nobody could have stopped us anyway.
The following morning we climbed nearly 1000 metres to Mt Pirongia. We actually met two people out for a day walk – they were Taiwanese – at the summit. We made it to Pahutea Hut just as the skies opened – what a haven, our first proper DOC hut on the trail since Cape Reinga.
A great walk off Pirongia next day, starting with the longest boardwalk we have ever encountered on the 
Hiwikiwi track. Then in the afternoon it rained, and then it poured, and we walked and walked and walked at times through head high fern and manuka on a cattle-muddied track until we found an abandoned woolshed aka the Hilton. We swept a corner free of wool and dust and made ourselves a cosy nest for the night – thank God, no rats or mice. Or ghosts.
Next day the rain stopped and we found our way over farms and through forest (thanks, Melissa, your directions worked a treat) the long way round to Waitomo, where we enjoyed a touch of civilization – big home made meat pies and a beer. The day was not unusual in one respect – the GPS information we had and the track descriptions didn’t match, and the track markers often didn't exist. Just a wee challenge – the psychology of this trip is often as tough as the trail itself and the demands of walking all day every day.
But hi ho, we’re having a great time, we’ve met some wonderful people along the way – all angels in their different ways. Next stop, Te Kuiti to restock and then into the Pureoras we go. Thank you so much to all who have helped us and sorry this is so long.
Notes
Day 2: Mt Eden to Ak Airport - stealth camp beside Puhinui road. 28.8 km
Day 3: Airport to Camp Sladdin, Clevedon via Mill Rd. 22.5 km
Day 4: Clevedon to shelter below Wairoa Dam, Hunuas. 24.9 km
Day 5: Wairoa Dam to Mercer motel. 33.9 km
Day 6: Mercer to Rangiriri Hotel. 27.1 km
Day 7: Rangiriri to near Hakarimata reserve, camp on lawn. 22.9 km
Day 8: Hakarimata Reserve to Ngaruawahia motel. 13.6 km
Day 9: Ngaruawahia to Lake Rotoroa, Hamilton. 22.4 km
Day 10: Drinsdale, Hamilton to Kaniwhaiwha Stream, camping. 30.1 km
Day 11: Kaniwhaiwha Stream to Pahutea Hut, Pirongia. 10.9 km
Day 12: Pahutea Hut to derelict woolshed, Mahoe Road. 31.5 km
Day 13: Mahoe Road to Waitomo. 19.2 km
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