Down the River

When we left Wellington in torrential rain we felt despondent, but by the time we reached National Park the sun had come out and our enthusiasm returned. After so many months off the trail, our packs felt heavy, but the Fisher Track presented no huge obstacles and we enjoyed getting underway again. We got out on to Kurua Road and met a lovely family, Jason, Cherie and baby Kaysha. They kindly offered us a place to stay for the night which we sadly had to decline – we needed to clock up a few more kms or the second day would be impossible! So we ended up camping on the edge of Retaruke Road, a few sheltering trees protecting us from an early evening shower. Rob by this time was developing a horrendous cold, and he has suffered all week. At least it slowed him down just a tad, and I had some chance of keeping up with him.

It was a long road walk to Whakahoro, over 34 kms, and it sure felt like it. We met a local councillor on the way, Elaine, and we chatted to her about the trail and the necessary shortcut up to the Mangaparua Trig. She wasn’t entirely supportive of it, but we hope she will see the need eventually. There was almost no traffic on Oio road, but an angel came along 2 kms before the end and took our packs for us. That included our rain jackets, and she no sooner drove off than it started to rain. We just made it to the Blue Duck café before the heavens opened. We had a long chat to Dan Steele at the café about the fantastic work he is doing to protect Whio (blue duck) in the area, and were very thankful of the DOC Schoolhouse as our accommodation for the night, while the hot shower at the café helped ease our aching bodies.

It was a fine day for our tramp up the Kaiwhakauka Valley and up to the Mangaparua Trig. We had to dodge around a few boggy patches, but most of the track was great, through lovely forest and farmland, and a clear trail to follow. It was a hot and sweaty climb to the trig, but all downhill to Bettjeman’s where we found a delightful spot to camp.

It was kind of sad seeing the grassy clearings and the names of the poor blighters who tried to farm the Mangaparua Valley in the 1920’s – all the farms were abandoned by the 1960’s.

There were some truly scary bluffs to negotiate – the river about 70 metres below us, papa cliffs above, a narrow track wending its way across – and 500 metres before the Bridge to Nowhere we had to cross a recently cleared slip one at a time, again with vertiginous drop-offs. There was fresh spoil on the track, but luckily goats had plugged a track across for us!

We were down at the Bridge to Nowhere in no time, and were met by Ben Adams from the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge, and a small tour group. We had the benefit of his very interesting historical talk, then made our way to the Mangaparua Landing, and from there by jet boat to the Lodge. We were the only guests, and enjoyed meeting our hosts Joe and Mandy, Ben’s son Blake, and brother Matt. It was a great place for Rob to relax and recover a bit.


Thoughts of paddling down to Pipiriki were abandoned next day as Rob was still crook and the weather looked dodgy, so we had the thrill of the jet boat ride instead. From Pipiriki we had a pleasant short walk to Jerusalem, Hiruharama, where we met Sisters Luciana and Meena, and spent the night in a lovely room at the Convent. Rob practically collapsed into bed that afternoon, but he did rally enough to tune in to a sports station on an old radio we found and listen to Wales beating Ireland and France beating England in the Rugby World Cup.

It was a brilliant walk along the fascinating River Road next day, stopping at Ranana to chat to a local farmer, Tricia, and at the Gallery at Matahiwi for a cold drink and a look at the River Queen, the boat used in the movie of the same name. We sat in incredibly hot sun at the old flour mill for lunch, and plodded on along the road. Rob’s classic line for the day: “That place up ahead is where we’re going to”. Yes, well…

We were fascinated to see a swarm of bees, and later on in the day had a few scary moments with a couple of massive bulls loose on the road. 

A gondola carried us high across the river to our destination for the night, a wonderful place called The Flying Fox. John, our host, was just awesome, and looked after us so well. We stayed in the Glory Cart, like a gypsy caravan, perfect for our needs. Every cottage was quirky and unique and the setting peaceful and pretty. We loved it. John sold us fresh free range eggs, avocado and fruit, and invited us into his beautiful studio to share a wine and watch the All Blacks beat Argentina, a great night.

John kindly fixed up a place for us to camp next day by the Pungarehu Marae, on private land owned by a local farming family. Patrene and Donald Wickham were so welcoming, as was their daughter Jane and baby Phoebe. It transpired that  A. H. Reed, the publisher, stayed on this very same farm when he walked the length of New Zealand all those years ago in his 90's.

And so on to Wanganui where my sister Elinor and Jimmy are looking after us and where we have had a chance to wash clothes, dry the tent, eat delicious food, sip fine wine, and enjoy a good rest. So until next time, goodbye for now, and Go the All Blacks!!!




Day 1: National Park to roadside camp, Retaruke Road. 18.1 km
Day 2: Retaruke Rd. to DOC cabin, Whakahoro. 34.1 km
Day 3: Whakahoro to Bettjeman’s camp. 29.7 km
Day 4: Bettjeman’s to Bridge to Nowhere Lodge. 12.5 km
Day 5: Jetboat to Pipiriki, walk to Jerusalem convent. 11.9 km
Day 6: Jerusalem to the Flying Fox, Koriniti. 20.7 km
Day 7: Koriniti to lawn camp, Pungarehu. 25.1 km
Day 8: Pungarehu to Wanganui. 18.1 km