The real thing - over the Waiau Pass

Rob on the way to John Tait Hut

Rob decided he would be okay to resume our journey, so after 2 relaxing days with Tom and Heather, they kindly dropped us back at St Arnaud, and off we set again, heavy packs on our backs - but thanks for the delicious sandwiches Heather! We walked along the edge of Lake Rotoiti, and on up to John Tait Hut, situated between 2 avalanche debris piles. 

The Upper Travers

Next day we walked alongside the tumbling Travers River and climbed up and over Travers Saddle (1787m) - it seemed to have got higher since we last did it - and down the scree on the other side. Rob whizzed down the scree slope like a mountain goat and when I finally arrived at the bottom he said in a somewhat scornful voice that he had waited for me 4 times and didn't know why people were so tentative on it. Pah.

Debby on Travers Saddle

The descent carried on for ages through Beech forest down to West Sabine Hut where the first person we saw was Adi, just as we had planned. We shared the hut with some interesting company, and were the grateful recipients of some delicious fried Rainbow Trout - what a treat.



Sabine River

Blue Lake

The following day was wonderful - along one of the most beautiful pieces of track in the whole of New Zealand - beside the Sabine River, through rich forest, moss gardens, pretty tarns, little bridges like you would find in a Japanese garden and up to the stunning Blue Lake with its deep blues and lime green colours, a delight for the eye. It has the clearest and purest water in the world - well, that was true until Adi and I leapt in - we were both out in seconds, the water was between 5-8 degrees. I admired Adi who leapt back in for some more ice torture. We did feel great afterwards, but couldn't persuade Rob to follow suit. We spent a lazy afternoon gathering strength and courage for the assault on the Waiau Pass at 1870 metres.

Rob with Adi below, Lake Constance

We got to the top of the moraine wall above Blue Lake in good time and headed out across scree slopes high above Lake Constance. Some of the descents were totally hair-raising, down almost vertical slippery gravel slopes, the lake gleaming in the early morning light far below.
I was mostly too scared to look.

Deb and Rob climbing Waiau Pass

Finally we reached easier ground, but then I looked up and all I could see was an endless scree slope stretching up into the far horizon. We had to climb that????!! We did indeed, and on top of that there was another 500 metres which thankfully was not so steep, and I admit to even enjoying it. It felt great to reach the top, the weather was perfect and in every direction was a mountain peak. Stunning.

Rob, Waiau Pass



Waiau Pass descent

The reality of the descent soon hit us however, and although it was mostly okay, at one point we had to climb backwards about 15 feet down a narrow rocky chute. When I finally got down it and looked back up, I just knew that Rose, Sam and Emily would never believe their mother could do such a thing! I hate rock climbing, but that's exactly what it was, little narrow toe holds and finger holds. Ugh.
It was still a long way to the bottom, and then another couple of hours over many tiring boulder fields to Caroline Biv where after 10 hours we finally made camp, fending off armies of sandflies. 

Next day it rained, our legs felt like lead, then turned to jelly, and then it snowed. It was freezing, so we were very glad to reach the lovely new Anne Hut, and felt extremely fortunate to have got over Waiau Pass at all.




Anne Hut

Snow on the ranges

  Next morning we had to walk through waist-high, ice-encrusted grass for a couple of hours, it was very painful on our tired legs and turned our toes to iceblocks. We did enjoy seeing wild horses, including foals, near Anne Hut. Tiny riflemen, strident bellbirds and our old friends, Paradise Duck, kept us entertained all the way to little Magdalen Hut which we had to ourselves like Anne Hut. Where is everyone?

Debby, Rob and Adi on the St James Walkway

From Boyle Village we got the regular service (except Saturday) East-West shuttle at about 10.30 am to the Hanmer junction, and were waiting for the connecting Hanmer bus but decided to stick out the thumb, and we got a ride within minutes. The joy of soaking in the hot pools and relieving our variously aching backs, knees and achilles is hard to describe, as is the thought of an extra day off here in pretty Hanmer Springs. The YHA is excellent and we are resting and hopefully getting fit for the Harper Pass track tomorrow. Two days behind on our planned itinerary, but we need the rest. Next stop, Arthur's Pass village.

Notes:

Day 18: St Arnaud to John Tait Hut. 25.5 km
Day 19: John Tait to West Sabine Hut. 14 km
Day 20: West Sabine to Blue Lake Hut. 7 km
Day 21: Blue Lake Hut to Caroline Biv camp. 12 km
Day 22: Caroline Biv to Anne Hut. 28 km
Day 23: Anne Hut to Magdalen Hut. 21 km
Day 24: Magdalen Hut to Boyle Education Centre. 8 km
Day 25: Rest day, Hanmer Springs