Traverse to the mountains

Yes, this was written from the comfort and safety of home - so now you know we made it. But it wasn't without some effort...

We left Taumaranui with heavy packs, loaded up with enough food for seven days. Rob's pack went into protest mode, and started falling apart. Shoulder strap buckles pinged, he had to tie knots in the straps to hold his pack on, and basically ended up looking like a bit of a hobo. Of course he tried to offload weight onto his good wife, but she cried foul.

We made it to Owhango, chatted to a gun cyclist who had just done the 42nd traverse in 3 hours - he's a machine - and following his directions found our way to the track. First we begged water from a woman doing up her cottage in case we couldn't find any, so with even heavier packs we set off up the traverse and a couple of hours later found a perfect little spot to camp on the side of the track.

A perfect camp site in the middle of nowhere provides a stream with clean water, soft grass, evening sun, beautiful forest, entertainment in the form of kereru swooping overhead, and of course a discreet and private ablution area. We got a bit feral and foraged for luscious blackberries and not so luscious apples - more offerings of the perfect campsite.

Next day was a Saturday, which meant we had several near-death experiences with crazy cyclists, quad bikes and motor bikes hurtling towards us. They were all having the fun of an amazing downhill, while we struggled and sweated ever upwards in the heat of the day, one climb going up and up forever to 910 metres. We did enjoy sensational views of the Wanganui River miles below us, lovely regenerating forest, and caught glimpses of our destination, the mountains of the central plateau, in the distance.

It was along this track that I spent much time meditating on why and how a guy 10 years older than me could go faster and faster - at times I calculated that the galloping giraffe in front was at least a quarter of a kilometre ahead. I hate long legs.

On Kapoors road at the end of the track, the motorcyclists we'd seen earlier in the day came back, passed us with care and then deliberately gunned it down the gravel road leaving us to eat their dust. Sods.

We got out to State Highway 47 at 5.00 pm, after walking 62 kilometres in 2 days, in desperate need of a shower and with another 10 km to go to the Tongariro Holiday Park. The only sensible thing to do was stick out the thumb and we got a ride with a Japanese tourist Daisuke who told us about the earthquake and tsunami in Japan. It was some time before we learnt the full scale of the shocking disaster.

We had a lazy morning before setting off up the road to Ketatahi Hut, battling against the tide of people coming off the crossing on a perfect day. The views over Lake Taupo from the hut were stunning and sunset was magical.

We were the only nutters who elected to camp at Ketatahi. There was a cool northwesterly breeze blowing the sulphuric fumes from the hot springs straight into our tent. Our tent isn't a real tent. It's a tarptent - the side and end walls are mesh. Needless to say it was a tad chilly in our lightweight sleeping bags that night.

Next day we set off early avoiding virtually everyone doing the crossing, and had the most fantastic trip through spectacular landscapes to the enormous new Waihohonu Hut. It looks like a luxury lodge, has solar panels providing enough electricity for lighting in the kitchen area and a hot water tap. Posh.

From there we headed south to Rangipo Hut and didn't see anyone for a couple of days. There were loads of gullies to negotiate and a slightly disconcerting section across a lahar path. You are not supposed to linger and are supposed to walk quickly across the area - very tricky on steep slippery gravel.

The next morning in perfect conditions again, we headed to Mangaehuehu hut. This time there was a truly enormous, steep and slippery downhill to the Wahianoa River, and of course a big ascent on the other side. But even so we got to the hut earlier than expected, around lunch time, and decided to carry on to Blyth Hut for our last night in the wilds. We watched the sun go down, lighting up Mt Taranaki with a wonderful red glow and providing us with a sensational end to our trek.

Walking down the Blyth Track to Ohakune on our last day we got a huge surprise to bump into Shelley and Bob coming up to meet us. It was great to see them and we celebrated our journey together in Ohakune with yet another massive steak at the RSA before they drove us home next day.

So there we have it, section 2 done and dusted, National Park through to Wanganui and on to Wellington in October.

Our feet are slowly recovering, we are eating like horses trying to regain the couple of kgs we've lost, and we've even started beating the garden back into shape. Thanks again to all our wonderful helpers for the transport, beds and food, and to Rose and Emily for looking after the house. We couldn't do it without you all.

Until next time, Rob and Debby

Notes

Day 21: Taumaranui to side of track camp on 42 Traverse. 28.6 km
Day 22: Traverse to Tongariro Holiday Park. 31 km
Day 23: Holiday Park to Ketatahi Hut. 14.6 km
Day 24: Ketatahi to Waihohonu Hut. 15.3 km
Day 25: Waihohonu to Rangipo Hut. 12.8 km
Day 26: Rangipo to Blyth Hut. 15.4 km
Day 27: Blyth to Ohakune Mountain Road. 7.7 km