Through the forest and down the beaches

Bet you thought we'd given up. But no, we've been in the wilds or when we were in civilisation we were too busy hunting down enormous plates of food, cold beers and soft beds to bother writing stuff.

But here we are in Warkworth with Lee and Barry looking after us. They think Rob in particular is looking a bit skeletal and are trying to fatten him up. You have no idea how wonderful it is to have a soft bed and real food. And people to talk to. We've been incredibly alone out there on the trails, but we are never lonely. There's always each other and the birds and the cows and the sheep. We talk to them, the cows follow us with great curiosity, the birds fly away and the sheep run for it. These are the little details we amuse ourselves with as we trudge along...over soft grass, hard mud, soft mud, bog, dirt track, gravel road, tarmac. Did you know there are thousands of variations in road surfaces?

So, since Paihia..... there have been lowlights and highlights. In the middle of nowhere – well, somewhere in the Ngaitonga Reserve - water a problem, Rob nobly climbed down a bank to a stream, the bank collapsed, he plunged sidelong into the water with a yell. I thought he'd broken his leg, but he came out with just a scratch, pockets full of mud, and I promise I didn't laugh – much.

Next day, on the 9 hour Russell Walkway Bypass track, we had to climb around slips and bash our way through head-high gorse and thick cutty grass. We were scratched and bleeding at the end of it, and thank goodness for the GPS as all trail markers had vanished. The track turned into 10 hours, then we got to the Oakura camp to find it closed. So we pitched the tent under the shelter of a verandah on someone's holiday home. If anyone had asked us to move I think I would have started crying.

The following day a badly signposted track off Kakanui Road meant we went many kms in the wrong direction. Back on the right track we missed a tiny, felt pen-written marker – and arrrrggghhhh we went the wrong way again, heading for Mimiwhangata instead of Whananaki on the Morepork-Onekainga track. Unbelievable. It was a long slog back up the steep track. Lost half a day, had to camp in the forest again, and had to make a meal out of not much.

But then we had a couple of great days to Whananaki, and on to Ngunguru. Beautiful forests and the most amazing thing happened on my birthday. We were looking for a place to stay, a complete stranger stopped and asked us if we needed help. Next thing we are in Sally's car whizzing up the road to her cabin high up on a hill with panoramic views. She insisted we stay for free and eat anything from her fridge we fancied, as she was about to go away! How's that for human kindness? She's one of our “Angels” (see below).

We have a number of categories for people, the top and bottom categories start with A. You can figure out the bottom one – those are the drivers on the roads who try to kill us. We have Angels (provide sanctuary and wheels into town when needed), Saints (offer rides which we of course decline), Cheerful Charlies (wave and leave us road room), Swingers (leave us room), Zombies (don't see us) and the A's. Luckily not too many of them, although the closer we get to Auckland the more of them there are.

We've loved the coastal walks through Pataua, Whangarei Heads, Waipu, Mangawhai, Pakiri and to here. We managed to wade safely across most rivers although we also had to make some long detours. We’ve been enjoying beautiful weather for days now.

At Pakiri we saw NZ's rarest bird, the fairy tern, so beautiful in flight but now down to just a few pairs.

We are on the road by 8.00am most days, and often don't stop until 5.00pm. Our longest day was 36km, way too long, and we do around 25 km average. We start off with vim but as the afternoon wears on, end up with little vigour......we're not sure whether we are getting fitter or just more and more tired. We're on the home stretch but a couple of days late on our plan.

Notes

Day 12: Paihia to Ngaitonga Forest - made a camp. 27.5 km

Day 13: Ngaitonga to Oakuracamp under a verandah. 24.7 km

Day 14: Oakura to Onekainga forest - made a camp. 32 km

Day 15: Onekainga to Whananaki Motor Camp cabin. 8.4 km

Day 16: Whananaki to Ngunguru, Sally's cabin. 21.8 km

Day 17: Ngunguru to Pataua South Treasure Island Camp. 29.4 km

Day 18: Pataua South to Taurikura Bay (hitch to Whangarei Top 10 cabin). 32.2 km

Day 19: Hitch to Mair Rd. carpark, walked to Waipu Cottages and campground cabin. 34.8 km

Day 20: Waipu to Mangawhai camp on Moir Road. 22.7 km

Day 21: Mangawhai to Pakiri Beach camp. 22.5 km

Day 22: Pakiri Beach to Lee & Barry's, Sandspit Road, Warkworth. 25.5 km