Unbelievable. Three full days and two half days down the exposed and stunningly beautiful 90 Mile Beach and perfect weather all the way. Someone up there was looking after us. As was our bus driver, Spike, who took us up to the Cape. He came by the next day and gave us bottles of much needed water and 2 huge date scones. I think he was totally amazed that two old codgers like us were even attempting this.
The top half to Te Paki Stream is stunning, gorgeous beaches and wild headlands with unique vegetation, and some very interesting geological features - one of these was a huge rocky cliff face that looked like a mini Ayers Rock. The rest of the beach we learnt about different patterns on the sand and could by the third day tell from the sound of the waves when the tide had turned. We were lucky with the tides, but even so we had to scurry up the beach a couple of times to avoid the incoming waves.
We saw one seal who lumbered off into the surf, several dead seals and 2 dead dolphins, lots of seagulls and terns, gannets, a few skinny Godwits recently arrived from Alaska and a scattering of dotterels. We found pieces of paper nautilus and some giant shells, and watched truckloads of seaweed being carted away and crazy drivers dodging the surf. In the afternoon were the buses, all the drivers and passengers waving to the crazy old codgers. And one of the drivers told us there was another madman a few kilometres behind us doing the whole trail. We eventually met Roger at Waipapakauri.
Mind you, we had our struggles. We both got blisters from walking walking walking, Rob's back was sore when he started but has slowly improved, and I've given in to the pain in my hip and finally taken a voltaren. Two nights in comfortable beds after camping in the sandhills has been very refreshing.
We are heading out of Ahipara for the next leg today, wondering what new challenges we will have to face as we cross the island.
Many thanks to Bob and Ann for putting us up for the night en route and a wonderful 3course gourmet dinner including a superb toblerone cheesecake, and Tom and Heather for a delicious lunch and taking us across Auckland to the bus, and looking after our car. And thanks Spike!
Notes
Day 1: Cape Reinga to south end Twilight Beach campsite - 11.6 km
Day 2: Twlight Beach to grassy platform, The Bluff - 28.6 km
Day 3: The Bluff to sandy wild camp 9 km north of Hukatere - 22.6 km
Day 4: Wild camp to Waipapakauri Beach motor camp cabin - 27.3 km
Day 5: Waipapakauri to Ahipara YHA/motor camp cabin - 14.1 km
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